October Home & Garden HortTips
Garden Checklist for October
Here's this month's list of gardening jobs:
•Make a jack-o'-lantern for Halloween.
•Bake pumpkin seeds for a nutritious snack.
•Watch the weather report for frost warnings. Be prepared to protect frost-sensitive plants if frost is forecast.
•Dig and store caladiums, geraniums and tuberous begonias before a killing frost.
•Dig and store canna tubers after frost blackens leaves.
•Dig gladiolus corms when leaes turn yellow. Store corms indoors.
•Plant high quality spring-flowering bulbs for more blossoms.
•Harvest and dry wild nuts.
•Eat imperfect fruits and vegetables; store perfect ones.
•Ripen green tomatoes away from the sun.
•Sow seed of hardy flowers such as calendula, larkspur and sweet peas in ourdoor beds.
•Harvest Brussels sprouts. Their taste improves after the first frost.
•Harvest pumpkins before they are damaged by frost. Cure winter squash and pumpkins for several days at warm temperatures prior to storing for winter.
•Harvest dry onions, sweet potatoes and potatoes
•Store leftover seeds for next year.
•Store garden hoses, plant supports and fountain pumps.
•Remove plants that have not performed well.
•Call an arborist for serious tree problems.
•Delay pruning woody plants until there have been 2 or 3 hard frosts.
•Leave foliage of mums and asparagus i place for the winter.
•Rake and compost tree leaves and garden debris.
•Edge planting beds.
return to: |top|
Harvesting Black Walnuts
Although nut growers with only a few trees may allow black walnuts to fully ripen on the tree and fall to the ground, for the highest quality nuts, knock them off the tree to prevent discoloration of the shell and kernels. As soon as you can dent with your thumbs the hull of several black walnuts on a tree, all of the nuts on that tree are ready to be shaken down. Before gathering "wild" nuts, crack a few to see that the kernels are full. Nuts may fail to fill for a variety of reasons and there is no need to collect, hull, wash and dry nuts only to find them worthless.
Hulling quickly after harvest is important. Black walnuts have a stain in the hull that will go into, and through the shell, discoloring the kernels and giving them a strong taste.
After hulling, spread the nuts out on the lawn ~a wire screen and wash them off by hosing them down. Once the nuts are washed, place them in shallow layers in a shaded, cool, dry place with good air circulation. Never put them in direct sun. Drying takes about two weeks.
return to: |top|
African Violets
African violets are the perfect house plant to spruce up your home or office with cheery blooms. You can choose from the standards, the miniatures or the cascading forms. The great thing about African violets is that they are a low light plant and will grow well on a north or east windowsill or you can easily grow them under a desk flourescent lamp. Many of the miniatures now are sold with their own wick watering system so that watering is a breeze. African violets prefer a potting medium kept evenly moist so the wick watering system takes the guess work out of watering.
African violets need regular applications of fertilizer to produce constant bloom. Use a water soluble fertilizer at about one-eighth strength when watering. If given enough light, your African violets should bloom almost continuously.
return to: |top|
Small Shrubs with All-Season Interest
Creating interest in the landscape throughout the year using color, texture and form is an objective of most gardeners. Some plants have several attributes that exhibit ornamental qualities during each season of the year. If your looking for a small shrub for your landscape with all-season interest, one of the following might fit the bill.
Cranberry cotoneaster has a stiff, herringbone pattern of branching that is interesting all year. Glossy green leaves turn a bronzy-red to purple in fall. The cranberry-red fruit provide an excellent showing in late fall through winter. Cranberry cotoneaster reaches 3 feet in height by 3 to 6 feet wide.
Oakleaf hydrangea is a coarse shrub that provides an excellent contrast in the landscape. The foliage is deep green in summer turning to red, orangish brown, and purple in autumn. The flowers open white in late June and age to purple-pink and finally brown. The exfoliating bark of mature plants is cinnamon-brown. Oakleaf hydrangea grows 4 to 6 feet in height with equal spread.
Winterberry Holly makes a fine natural screen with its slender, densely branched stems. The fruit is bright red and ripens in late August, persisting into January .The cultivar Sparkleberry is a choice hybrid due to excellent fruit color. As with other hollies, both sexes are needed to get berries on the female plants. Winterberry Holly reaches 6 to 10 feet high and wide.
For more details on plants with all-season interest, see OSU Extension Fact Sheet HYG-1143-96 Deciduous Trees and Shrubs with All-Season Interest.
return to: |top|
Ripening Pears
Contrary to most fruit which achieve the best flavor if allowed to ripen on the tree, domestic pears should be picked when they are still hard and slightly immature, and then allowed to ripen under refrigeration. Pears ripen from the core out, so although a pear may appear hard and green on the outside, the inside may be already overripe with an unpleasant flavor.
Observe your pears daily as they approach normal ripening time for your region. When the background color of the skin begins to change from a dull green to greenish-yellow, the fruit should be ready to pick. This change may be first noticed around the lenticels, the small pores in the skin. When the color of the lenticels changes from white to brown the pear is mature and will ripen off the tree. Store the fruit at 34 F for two to three weeks and ripen small quantities at room temperature as needed.
To check for eating readiness, gently press around the base of the stem with your thumb. If the flesh gives slightly, the pear is ready to eat. Pears that are not fully ripe can be stored from several weeks to several months if kept properly cooled.
Asian pears are a different story altogether. These round, firm, crunchy pears should be tree-ripened. Look for a gentle color change from green to light brown or green to yellowish green. A taste test every few days is also helpful. The fruit can be kept for two to three weeks at room temperature and up to six months depending on the cultivar. Many Asian pear strains have tough skins and are eaten peeled. The core also has many gritty stone cells, so serving sliced may also be preferred.
return to: |top|
Parsnips
Parsnips produce white to cream-colored roots which have a sweet, nut-like flavor. Cool temperatures convert starch to sugar and give the parsnips their distinctive flavor . Gardeners should be careful when digging parsnips. Damaged or broken roots do not store well. Trim the foliage back to within 1 inch of the roots. Store in a refrigerator or cellar with a temperature of 32 to 40 degrees and a relative humidity of 90 to 95%. If storing in the refrigerator, place the parsnips in perforated plastic bags.
Parsnips can be left in the ground over winter and harvested in the spring. To prevent possible winter injury , cover the parsnips with several inches of straw. The straw can be held in place by covering with a tarp or fencing material and laying concrete blocks or bricks along the edges.
In spring, harvest the parsnips before growth begins. The quality of the crop declines rapidly once growth resumes. There is no truth to the mistaken belief that parsnips are poisonous once growth begins in the spring.
return to: |top|
Fall Lawn Care
Fall is a busy time for gardeners. With so much to do, lawn care is sometimes neglected. However, proper lawn care in fall helps insure an attractive, healthy lawn next season.
Continue to mow the lawn until the grass stops growing. The foliage of cool-season grasses, such as bluegrass, usually stops growing in early November. Mow bluegrass lawns at a height of 2 to 2-1/2 inches in the fall.
University research has shown that fall (August or September) and late fall (November or December) fertilization is ideal for home lawns. Fertilizations during these times will benefit lawns more than any other practice. Most homeowners place too much emphasis on spring and summer fertilization.
Gardeners with large, mature trees in their yard need to rake and dispose of the fallen leaves. A thick layer of leaves left on the lawn throughout the winter may smother and damage the turfgrass plants. Composting is an excellent way to dispose of leaves. Small quantities can be shredded by a lawnmower and left on the lawn.
Late fall broadleaf weed herbicide applications are effective and pose fewer risks. By late fall, most flower and vegetable gardens have been destroyed by a frost. Also, most trees and shrubs are going dormant. A late fall herbicide application, therefore, poses fewer risks to nontarget plants. On the other hand, perennial broadleaf weeds continue to absorb broadleaf herbicides until growth ceases in November.
return to: |top|
Accidental Invaders
Accidental invaders are insects and spiders that find their way into your home and sometimes in large numbers. They generally cause no harm to people or the home or its furnishings, but they're a nuisance by their presence. Accidental invaders include boxelder bugs, multicolored Asian lady beetles, wolf spiders and other small critters.
The most effective management option is to prevent invasion by sealing cracks, gaps and openings on the outside before they wander in during late summer. Exterior insecticides are not recommended because large areas must be heavily sprayed on a repeated basis for significant control. And, treatment must be applied before the invaders begin to enter buildings. Indoor sprays are of very limited benefit. The practical solution is to vacuum or sweep up and discard these uninvited guests.
return to: |top|
Healing Landscape
Healing landscape is a term used to show that the presence of plants in a landscape is considered to be the healing element, rather than the traditional concept of a treatment program with active participation with growing or caring for plants. For hospitals, nursing homes, and hospices, these landscapes may be designed cooperatively with a horticultural therapist to serve the dual purpose of a healing landscape for some clients and a horticultural therapy garden for others. This field is becoming an increasingly recognized element in landscape design.
The concept of designing landscapes at hospitals, hospices, and similar sites for their healing qualities rather than merely to cover the grounds is gaining prominence as a result of the work of researchers, such as Roger Ulrich at Texas A&M and Rachel and Stephen Kaplan at the University of Michigan, providing much of the theoretical basis for this movement. Other disciplines are also recognizing the importance of this area.
return to: |top|
Harvesting and Curing Gourds
Gourds are ready for harvest when the stems dry and turn brown. Although mature gourds with a hardened shell will survive a light frost, its best to harvest before frost. Green, less developed gourds will suffer frost-damage. Gourds should be cut from the vine with a few inches of stem attached. Discard any fruit that is rotten, bruised or immature; or was damaged during harvest. Clean gourds with soap and water, allow to dry, and then disinfect the surface with rubbing alcohol or a dilute bleach solution.
Surface drying is the first step in the curing process and takes about 1 week. Place clean, dry fruit in a dark, well-ventilated area. Arrange in a single layer and do not allow the gourds to touch one another. Check gourds daily and discard any that show signs of decay or mold.
Internal drying is the final step in curing and takes a minimum of four weeks. Place gourds in shallow containers in a dark, warm, well-ventilated area. Providing warmth during the internal curing process will accelerate drying and discourage decay. Periodically turn the fruit to promote even curing. Curing is achieved when the gourds become light weight and the seeds rattle inside.
return to: |top|
Fruit Flies
Fall is a time of the year when the perennial annoyance of "gnats" in the house is driving people buggy .The difficulty is not the occasional fruit fly buzzing around fruit on the countertop, but rather large numbers of fruit flies appearing at windows and over sink drains every day.
The indoor gnat problem of the fall is usually the common fruit fly. This is a small, red-eyed, fly only 1/4 inch long with alternating light and dark stripes on the abdomen. Although commonly associated with overripe and fermenting fruits and vegetables, fruit need not be present to have fruit flies, as they can originate from other sources.
Fruit flies can reproduce anywhere there is fermenting organic matter that stays wet or moist. In the house, likely places for flies to breed include slow-moving or seldom-used sink, bathtub, shower, or floor drains in which a layer of slime (gelatinous film) has built up above the water line. Other moist accumulations of fermenting organic matter are possible such as wet areas under dripping pipes and refrigeration equipment, garbage containers, and discarded bottles and cans. Regardless of where the flies originate, they will be at windows throughout the house and at sinks because they are attracted to light and to moisture.
Controlling fruit flies requires locating and eliminating the source of the infestation. One way to check individual drains is to temporarily cover the drain with a plastic film such as Saran Wrap taped to the floor or fixture. If the flies are breeding in that drain, the adults will accumulate underneath the film within a day or two. Drains can be cleared of flies with boiling water.
Household insecticide sprays for flying insects can be used to eliminate the adult flies that are present at the time of treatment but this will be only a temporary relief at best. Eradication will require eliminating the source of the infestation. Fruit flies are sometimes a temporary annoyance as they eventually disappear on their own without a source ever being determined.
return to: |top|
Figuring Out Fertilizer
Fertilizer recommendations often refer to pounds of nitrogen rather than pounds of fertilizer . This allows for consistent recommendations that can be used with a variety of fertilizer formulations.
All fertilizers are labeled with three numbers, such as 5-10-10 or 12-12-12. These numbers are the percentages by weight of nitrogen, phosphate, and potash, respectively the essential nutrients most likely to be needed by plants. Complete fertilizers are those that provide all three of these nutrients.
You can calculate how much nitrogen to apply based on these numbers, often called the fertilizer's guaranteed analysis, by dividing the amount of nitrogen recommended by the percentage of nitrogen in the fertilizer. For example, if the recommendation calls for 1 pound of nitrogen for 1000 square feet of lawn and you have a bag of 12-4-8 in your garage, divide 1 by 12% to give 8.3 pounds of fertilizer (1 divided by 0.12 = 8.3lbs.). You then know to spread 8.3 pounds of 12-4-8 fertilizer for every 1000 square feet of lawn to provide the correct amount of nitrogen. If using a 24-8-16 fertilizer, you should apply half as much (1 divided by 0.24 = 4.16 lbs.). Always calculate carefully and apply fertilizer at the proper time of year. Careful use of fertilizer helps protect water quality and leads to a healthier landscape.
return to: |top|
Tree Decline
Premature fall coloration, smaller and fewer leaves, and early leaf drop can be early symptoms of tree decline. Decline is a term used to describe a tree that is slowly but generally deteriorating. As the condition worsens, some branches may die, beginning with the top of the tree and progressing downward. Trees suffering from decline may survive for many years, or they may die within a year or two. Red, Norway and sugar maples, ash, sycamore and oak are the trees most commonly affected by decline.
This deterioration may be caused by many things. The decline is usually related to something that has restricted, damaged or impaired the tree's root or vascular system. Some of the factors involved include: salt injury from de-icing salts, root or trunk injury from construction activities, soil compaction, repeated droughts, flooded soil conditions, girdling roots, and others.
Determining the cause of the decline will help in controlling, or at least slowing down, the deterioration of the tree. Maintaining tree health by watering and fertilizing, and preventing wounding ~important. Selective pruning of branches and vertical mulching or core aeration are other practices which may help.
return to: |top|
Storing Dahlia Tubers
Lift dahlias after the first frost or before the end of October. Before lifting tubers, remove all ties. Stakes should be cleaned, repaired, and stored. Attach name labels to the base of the main stem of named cultivars. Cut the foliage off so that there remains a three to four inch stem on the roots. Because tubers may have spread quite a distance, begin digging far enough from the plant so as not to damage them. A spading fork or spade works well for this task. For easier lifting make several cuts into the soil with the fork or spade around the clump and gently pry to raise the tubers intact.
Once the tubers are out of the soil, remove as much soil as possible without damaging the tubers. Turn the tubers upside down to drain the stem and allow the soil to dry .When dry , remove the remainder of the soil. Soil may also be washed from the tubers with water under pressure. Cut off any small roots. Remove and discard tubers that are damaged or diseased, and dust any cut surfaces with sulfur. Place the tubers in wooden flats, bushel baskets, or cardboard boxes that have a few inches of peat moss or sawdust in the bottom. Then cover them with the same packing material, leaving the stems exposed. A little moisture may be added to prevent shriveling. Place the packed tubers in a dry, 40 to 55 degree location.
Check tubers in a few weeks and again in January for signs of shriveling or fungal infection. Add a small amount of moisture if shriveling has occurred. For more information on dahlia culture, see OSU Extension Fact Sheet HYG1245-92- "Growing Dahlias."
return to: |top|
Planting Conifers
Many nurseries offer sales on conifers in the autumn. The earlier you plant them the more time they'll have to become established before harsh weather sets in. This is especially important for evergreens since they can continue to transpire, or give off moisture, through their needles during the winter. However, frozen soil prevents the roots from taking in moisture. Mulch the root area of the conifers with several inches of wood chips to keep the soil from freezing too soon.
While you're out digging planting holes for new landscape plants, why not go ahead and prepare for your live Christmas tree. The ground will likely be frozen when you'll want to plant in late December. Live Christmas trees should be kept indoors for as short a period of time as possible. Root balls can dry quickly and warm temperatures will break the tree's dormancy. Plan ahead.
return to: |top|
Ohio Apples
Fall is the perfect time to try the many varieties of Ohio apples. This year why not experiment with some specialty varieties. A few of the many apples varieties grown in Ohio are listed below. Select the variety according to its intended use.
McIntosh has a spicy flavor and tender texture; good for sauces, pies, baking; sauce freezes well. Jonathon is tart-spicy; good for sauce; excellent for pies and baking; slices freeze well. Stayman has spicy flavor and firm texture; excellent for pies and baking; good for sauce; slices and sauce freeze well. Melrose is a crisp-mild apple that is good for baking and excellent for sauce and pies; slices and sauce freeze well. Gala is sweet. and firm textured; excellent for pies and baking; not good for sauce; slices freeze well.
Select firm apples, free of bruises, decay, broken or shriveled skin. Fruit should be ripe when picked to have good flavor, texture, and storing ability. Apples should be well colored; check for background that is greenish-yellow to yellow.
Keep your apples in the refrigerator; 32-35 degrees is ideal. Store in a perforated, plastjc bag. Check fruit often for any signs of rotting and discard spoiled apples. For more information see OSU Extension Fact Sheet HYG-5507-09 "Selecting, Storing and Serving Apples."
return to: |top|
Amaryllis
Amaryllis are popular flowering bulbs which are grown for their large, spectacular blooms during the winter months. Bulbs are available pre- planted in pots or unpotted.
When planting an amaryllis bulb, select a pot which is approximately 1 to 2 inches wider than the diameter of the bulb. The container may be clay, ceramic or plastic, but should have drainage holes in the bottom. Plant the bulb in good, well-drained potting soil. Add a small amount of potting soil in the bottom of the pot. Center the/bulb in the middle of the pot. Then add additional potting soil, firming it around the roots and bulb. When finished potting, the upper one- half to two-thirds of the bulb should remain above the soil surface. Also, leave about one inch between the soil surface and the pot's rim. Then water well and place in a warm, 70 degree location.
After the initial watering, allow the soil to dry somewhat before watering again. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. When growth appears, move the plant to a sunny window and apply a water-soluble fertilizer every 2 to 4 weeks.
During flower stalk elongation, turn the pot each day to keep the flower stalk growing straight. Flower stalks that lean badly, may need to be staked.
Flowering usually occurs about 4 to 6 weeks after potting. When the amaryllis begins to bloom, move the plant to a slightly cooler location that doesn't receive direct sun to prolong the life of the flowers.
Pot amaryllis bulbs in early to mid-November for bloom during the holiday season. Flower colors include red, pink, orange, salmon, white, and bicolors (mostly whites with pink or red flushes).
return to: |top|
Buying Bulbs
Collecting bulbs from the wild severely taxes wild populations, some of which are already endangered, and can cause long-lasting damage to natural habitats. Among the most commonly sold wild-collected bulbs are snowdrops (Galanthus spp.), Sternbergia, and hardy cyclamen (Cyclamen spp.). In addition to conservation concerns, the gardener should be aware that wild bulbs are more likely to be diseased, damaged, or incorrectly identified than nursery-propagated specimens.
If the source of the bulbs is not known, wild-collected bulbs can be identified by their lack of uniformity. Wild-collected bulbs will exhibit more variability in shape and size than cultivated bulbs. It is recommended that gardeners support companies that have signed pledges either not to knowingly sell wild-collected bulbs or to clearly label any collected bulbs as being from a wild source.
return to: |top|
Crabapples to Consider
Ornamental crabapples are best-known for one of two features. For many they show their positive side with abundant white and pink flowers in spring. The darker side of their natures for others is borne by the fruits of fall, which on some crabapple cultivars can be too large and messy.
It need not be so. There are many crabapple cultivars with small, very ornamental fruits that are never messy (usually harvested from the tree by birds) and have an extended season of attractiveness far longer than the brief flower shows of springtime. Here are a few widely available crabapples to consider:
The cultivar Molten Lava, for instance, combines shiny, tiny red fruits on layers of cascading and spreading branches with fall-colored yellow and orange leaves, a lava flow of color effective from September through November. The cultivar Bob White has masses of golden fruits that are effective from early November all the way through February and into March when the cedar waxwings harvest their bounty. The cultivars Red Jewel, Sugar Tyme, and Donald Wyman all have red fruits lasting into March. Starting with the cultivar Red Splendor which has attractive fruits by the middle of June that last until mid October, you can grow a series of crabapples with appealing ornamental fruits for a full nine months of the year, a fruitful feat hard to match with other plants.
For more on crabapples, see OSU Extension Fact Sheet HYG-1029-96 and Crabapple Bulletin on crabapples.
return to: |top|
Asparagus
Resist temptation to cut down asparagus fern growth at the end of the season. The new all-male hybrids stay green until frost and will continue to photosynthesize and provide the crowns with plenty of stored reserves. Although not particularly attractive, dead asparagus fern growth should be left intact overwinter. It catches snow for additional soil moisture and keeps the soil temperature about five degrees cooler than bare soil with no covering of dead fern. The cooler soil temperature helps delay early emergence of asparagus in the spring, when air temperatures might rise prematurely and fall again, leading of frost damage of emerging spears.
For more information on asparagus culture, see Fact Sheet HYG-1603-94 "Growing Asparagus in the Home Garden.".
return to: |top|
Planting Spring-Flowering Bulbs
Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocuses are our beacons of spring. In order to enjoy these flowers at the end of our upcoming winter, it's time to plant now. Local garden centers have a good selection of bulbs.
Bulbs can be used in annual or perennial beds, as borders, with ground covers, in rock gardens or in wooded areas. Choose a site that's well-drained. Work a generous supply of organic matter into the soil prior to planting. A sprinkling of super phosphate or bone meal will encourage root development.
For most impact, plant bulbs in groups of twelve or more. Plant low-growing bulbs at the front of the garden. The short, early-blooming bulbs can be planted among the tall, late-season bulbs or perennials.
In general, plant a bulb two to three times as deep as the height of the bulb. Small bulbs, such as crocus, should be planted 2 to 4 inches apart. Plant large, tulip bulbs 4 to 8 inches apart. Soak the soil after planting to start root growth. If our fall weather continues to be dry, water the area as needed.
A little time spent this month will pay big dividends next spring in your colorful landscape and your brightened outlook.
return to: |top|
Garden Cleanup
Fall clean-up of garden beds is done not only to make the yard neat and tidy for the winter, but because it is an effective disease and insect pest management practice. Garden management practices such as this, can help reduce the need for pesticide applications. Removing plant debris once it's been frost damaged, reduces the quantity of diseases and pests that can overwinter. Many insect pests will snuggle survive winter's blast sheltered in decaying plant material. The plant debris itself may be full of disease inoculum that will be ready to reinfest new plants next spring.
What do you do with all this plant debris? You may have the option to send it to your municipal composting facility. Or you may do your own composting. Running the plant material through a chipper/shredder will allow it to decompose more rapidly. Diseased plant material should not be composted.
return to: |top|
Bringing Houseplants Indoors
Are the houseplants you moved back indoors after being outside all summer showing signs of poor health? Remember that they've undergone drastic light and temperature changes that can really cause some stress. Consider these tips when moving plants from the porch or patio to the living quarters for the winter:
■Don't move plants on a hot day. An air-conditioned home can really shock plants that have lived outside, especially during this summer's heat wave.
■Inspect closely for insects looking to hitch a ride inside. Aphids and spiders are the most common castaways. Control them with an insecticidal soap spray if necessary.
■Try to keep lighting situations as similar as possible. If the plant was in full sun, put it in the sunniest south window you have. Even then it's not uncommon for plants to drop leaves. But, don't worry too much; new leaves accustomed to the new lighting should grow back.
■Adjust your watering schedule to keep plants properly watered. Remember, they can't soak up rainwater anymore. Also, the inside of your home is less humid. Misting helps for a few minutes, but not much more. Unless you have a Florida room where you can control humidity, it's difficult to effectively increase it.
■Fertilize your plants only once or twice after they are inside, then wait until spring to resume. Most plants need a rest period, or dormancy. A good rule of thumb is to hold off on the fertilizer from November to March. Gradually begin fertilizing again after the first spring growth spurt.
return to: |top|
Needle Drop of Evergreens
Trees, shrubs and vines can be either evergreen or deciduous. The length of time their foliage is retained determines this classification.
Deciduous plants retain their leaves for only one growing season. All of their leaves drop to the ground in the fall. Their stems remain bare until new leaves emerge in the spring. This cycle is repeated yearly. Examples are oaks, maples, lilacs and grapes.
Pines, spruces, and firs are narrow-leafed plants. Their long, slender leaves are known as needles. These types of trees also lose some of their leaves each fall. However, they retain a portion of their leaves throughout the year and are referred to as evergreen.
While deciduous plants retain their leaves for only a few short months, the needles on evergreens may remain for several years. Evergreens produce a flush of new growth in the spring. In the fall, some of the older needles drop to the ground. It is the oldest leaves, those toward the center of the plant, that are shed. While it varies among the plant, up to one-third of the leaves may drop annually. Seasonal needle drop on some evergreens, such as the white pine, may be so dramatic that some people worry about the health of the tree. Usually these concerns are unwarranted. The only time to be concerned about needle drop in evergreens is when it extends to the end of the tips of the branches. Otherwise, annual autumn leaf drop is a completely normal, healthy process for both evergreen and deciduous plants.
return to: |top|
Fall Care of Roses
Roses are among our most beautiful plants, but they do require some special care throughout the year. Remove fallen leaves to the compost pile. If black spot has been a problem this year, a weekly application of fungicide beginning next spring when the plants leaf out will provide control.
Stop pruning the flowers now. Allow the fruits (the hips) to mature. This will help the plant become dormant.
If your bush type roses are tall, loosely tie the canes together with twine to prevent whipping of the canes by strong winds. Mound up soil to 10 to 12 inches around the canes. After the soil freezes, place a few inches of mulch around the plants for further protection.
Mulch your roses 8 - 10 inches deep around canes to winterize them. Remove dead, damaged or diseased canes and leaves to reduce disease and insect problems next year.
■If your climbing roses are in an exposed location, tie them up firmly with broad strips of rags so the wind will not whip them against the trellis and bruise the bark.
■It is too late this year to prune roses because they would become subject to winter injury. However, the rose garden should be raked and cleaned to prevent black spot and other diseases. Additional mulch should be added after the ground has frozen.
return to: |top|
Troubleshooting the Compost Pile
The process of composting adds new converts at this time of year as plant material in the landscape accumulates via fallen leaves and removal of dead plant material from annual, perennial and vegetable gardens. Restrictions on yard waste delivery to landfills and the realization by more people that composting is good for the environment are reasons new compost piles build up in neighborhoods. The finished product of the process, humus, is known as gardener's gold because of its ability to improve soil health to result in more vigorous plant growth.
Extension has a lot of good information on making and maintaining compost piles. And, we know that sometimes problems can occur in the process. Here are some of the more common complaints and the solutions:
The pile can develop a bad odor. This occurs when the pile is not getting enough air. To correct the problem, turn the pile and add more dry or brown material.
If the pile won't heat, it's probably too small. The pile should be at least 3 feet on each side including the height. If the pile's size is alright, the problem is that the pile is not wet enough. Adding soil to a compost pile will help hold water necessary for bacterial action.
If your pile is attracting animals, more carefully monitor what's being placed in the pile. Avoid using any meat products or fatty foods such as cheese; the only materials appropriate for the pile are those that come from plants, such as vegetables, fruits, grass clippings, coffee grounds and leaves.
Remember the basic steps: the pile should be formed of approximately equal weights of green and brown plant matter, be at least 3 feet on each side, and be kept moist, but not overly wet.
■When removing disease-infected plant parts or debris, do not place refuse on the compost pile. The disease pathogens will live in the compost pile and can be transmitted with the application of compost to other garden beds, unless compost temperatures reach above 180 degrees and decomposition is complete.
For more information on composting, see Extension Fact Sheet HYG-1189-99 "Composting at Home."
return to: |top|
Trees and Shrubs Attractive to Hummingbirds
Many people enjoy the colorful hummingbirds. While artificial feeders are somewhat effective, plantings are the most permanent and more natural way of providing food for these tiny birds.
Listings of annuals and perennials that attract hummingbirds are available at Extension. The Dawes Arboretum in Newark, Ohio recommends the following trees and shrubs: buckeyes and horse chestnut, crabapple, hawthorns, Siberian pea shrub, and tulip poplar. Two vines to consider are trumpet vine and honeysuckle.
return to: |top|
Lacebark Elm
The Ohio Nursery Landscape Association recommends the Lacebark or Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia) for Ohio landscapes. Moreover, Michael Dirr in his Manual of Woody Landscape Plants sings the praises of Lacebark Elm for its beauty, durability and adaptability.
This graceful tree has lustrous dark green foliage that changes to yellowish and reddish purple in the fall. The bark is a beautiful mottles combination of gray, green, orange and brown. Lacebark Elm is easily transplanted, adaptable to extremes of pH and soil. Best growth is achieved in moist, well-drained, fertile soils, but its tolerance of poor soil conditions makes it a good candidate for urban areas. Lacebark Elm shows considerable resistance to Dutch Elm Disease, as well as to feeding by Elm Leaf and Japanese beetles. It grows 40-50' high and wide, and prefers full sun.
return to: |top|
Caring for a new lawn
The primary concern with a new lawn is keeping the soil moist. New grass seedlings are fragile and have small root systems. If there is not enough rainfall, they can dry out quickly and die. Keep people and pets off the new lawn for as long as possible. Mow the new lawn when the grass grows to 3 inches. Cut it no shorter than 2 inches. Continue to cut the lawn at that height until it stops growing in late fall.
Wait 5 to 6 weeks after seeding to fertilize your new lawn. If you applied a starter fertilizer, a light application of a 3-1-2 ration fertilizer is appropriate. Apply 3/4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Use a fertilizer that is 30 to 50% slow-release nitrogen.
Remove leaves that fall on the new lawn as quickly as possible by raking lightly.
Do not apply weed-killers, insecticides or fungicides until next spring.
Straw can be removed to the compost pile or left on the lawn. It should break down within a few months to add organic matter to the soil.
return to: |top|
Winter Survival of Small Fruit Plants
Helping small fruits, such as blueberries and brambles survive harsh winter conditions it not just an issue in the fall, but relates to cultural practices carried out all through the year. The nutrient status of the plant affects cold hardiness. That is, if the plant is deficient, particularly in phosphorus or zinc, winter injury is likely. On the other hand, if plants have too much nitrogen or potassium in their tissues, they will not harden properly, and again, winter injury can occur. Following proper fertilization practices is clearly important. Late fertilization will delay the hardening process. Brambles and blueberries should not be irrigated after mid-September unless under severe drought stress. Planting a cover crop around these crops helps remove excess water and nutrients from the soil to plants properly harden.
Carbohydrate status is also important. This relates to leaves being able to do their job in producing "food" for the plant. Plants entering the winter with a shortage of stored carbohydrates are more susceptible to injury. Proper pruning allows plants to receive more light, allowing for more carbohydrate production.
The important fall practice is mulching. Mulch helps prevent soil heaving in newly planted blueberries. However, don't apply mulch too early. Wait until low temperatures have been sustained for at least 3 nights. If possible, it's best to mulch just before the first heavy snow. Resource: Cornell Small Fruit Newsletter.
return to: |top|
Soil Test
Have you tried to grow a lawn or flower garden with less than adequate results? Perhaps you should have performed a soil test before beginning? A soil test will tell you the proper amounts of lime and fertilizer that are needed to make nutrient levels ideal for plant growth. It could be that nutrient and acid levels are already suitable. Remember, too much lime and fertilizer can result in poor plant growth! The soil test is your best guide for proper liming and fertilizing of your lawn and garden.
For soil testing,we recommend the University of Massachusetts Soil Lab. The basic fee is $10 and their report will tell you how much lime, if any, and fertilizer is needed to provide the right amount of nutrients for your plants.
return to: |top|
Mulching Stawberries
Strawberries should be mulched in the fall to prevent winter injury. Temperatures below 20 degrees may kill flower buds and damage the roots and crowns of unmulched plants. Repeated freezing and thawing of the soil through the winter months can heave unmulched plants out of the soil and also damage plants. Excellent mulching materials include weed-free straw and chopped cornstalks. Leaves are not recommended as they tend to mat together.
Allow the strawberry plants to harden to the cool fall temperatures before mulching the bed. Apply the mulch after we've had two or three sharp freezes in the low to mid-20s. Apply 3 to 5 inches of the mulching material. After settling, the depth of the mulch should be approximately 2 to 4 inches.
Your strawberries may have survived last winter's record cold winter without mulching. I know the plants at our office did. The reason for this is that we had a snow cover for most of the winter and snow is an excellent insulator for plants. We can't, however, count on the snow to protect our plants every winter.
return to: |top|
Mowing the Lawn
It's very important to continue mowing your lawn this fall until the grass stops growing. Many people think they should let their grass grow high in the late fall on the theory that it will be better able to withstand the cold of winter. Actually, just the opposite is true! The last mowing of the fall should be one notch lower than the 2« - 3 inch height you've been maintaining all along. This will keep the grass from matting down under the snow so that it will be less likely to be smothered and less susceptible to snow mold.
return to: |top|
Everlastings
Everlastings is a term that describes a score of so of flowers that maintain their form and at least some of their color after air-drying. Some actually dry on the stem in the garden, while others dry better after picking, often hung in bunches upside down in a dry, airy place out of the sun. All everlastings do best in full sun in the garden.
Some popular everlastings include strawflower (Helichrysum bracteatum), Xeranthemum, Golden ageratum (Lonas inodora), Baby's breath (Gypsophila sp.), Globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), and Statice (Limonium sinuatum). Plants that produce seed pods that are valued for dry arrangements include poppy, clarkia, love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena), and the somewhat weedy hardy perennials Money Plant (Lunaria biennis) and Chinese lantern (Physalis franchetii).
return to: |top|
Fertilizing the Lawn
Research at Ohio State University has shown that lawns can be dramatically improved by a late season fertilization. This feeding is done after the grass stops growing after the first frost. This fertilization increases root growth which enables the lawn to better survive the adverse conditions of winter and droughts of summer. Also, the lawn will stay green longer into the winter and green up earlier in the spring.
The most important nutrient in this late fall feeding is nitrogen. The recommendation application rate is for 1 - 2 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 square feet of lawn. Extension's "Don't Bag It" Fact Sheet HYG-1191-93 has a listing of different fertilizer formulations and how much of each to add to achieve the 1 - 2 lbs of actual nitrogen.
You will not see a surge of growth after this feeding, but look for the improved color and quality next spring! And remember to reduce the fertilizer application at that time!
return to: |top|
Protecting Plants from Rodent Damage
Fruit plants are vulnerable to damage from rodents, particularly mice. Young apple trees are most likely to be damage, but brambles, strawberries and others can be attacked.
Mice begin to move from their current areas near a water source such as ponds, creeks, or swamps in November and look for food during fall and winter. Grasses growing near the trunk and mulches of grass clippings or straw are attractive to them. Keep the area next to the trunk free of all vegetation and fine mulches. Coarse mulches such as chipped bark can be used if kept free of weeds. Keep the area around your young trees mowed so predators can aid tin the control the mice.
If you haven't yet planted your spring-flowering bulbs, you can protect them from squirrels and chipmunks by fashioning a cage of chicken wire. Line the bottom and sides of the hole with the wire. Then, place a sheet of chicken wire on soil that covers the bulbs to about an inch. Continue to fill in the trench to the proper depth with soil.
While technically not a rodent, rabbits can damage fruit trees. This usually occurs when snow covers the ground for 7 to 10 days or longer. Rabbits are attracted to the tender bark of 1 to 5 year old apple trees. Apple trees are protected by placing wire mesh or vinyl tree wraps around the trunk to a height of 18 to 20 inches from November to late March. It's been shown that young bark needs full sunlight to harden for winter. Therefore, the newly tree guard needs to be put on in November and removed in late spring for complete hardening to occur.
return to: |top|
Purchasing Bird Seed
Depending upon which birds you want to attract to your garden, here are some suggestions on what they like to eat. Black oil sunflower seeds are relished by chickadees, evening grosbeaks, cardinals, and finches, and are less attractive to non-native sparrows and starlings. White proso millet is the best small seed, especially attractive to juncos and sparrows in winter. Goldfinches prefer thistle seed (also called niger), which also attracts house finches and pine siskins.
return to: |top|
Harvesting Horseradish
Horseradish, a native of eastern Europe, is an important component of the cuisines of diverse cultures. Planted in Colonial American gardens, it escaped to flourish as a wild plant.
Horseradish roots set out in the spring are of harvestable size by fall. Most growth occurs in late summer and early fall, so it's best to delay harvest until October or November. Dig up the entire root. A perennial, pieces of roots left in the ground will grow the next spring, but will lack the quality of young roots. Large main roots left in the soil till spring and harvested before new growth begins will have the hottest taste.
return to: |top|
Smoke Detectors
Now that the heating season is with us, here's another reminder to change the batteries in your smoke detectors. The Cleveland area has experienced many tragic housefires in the past that have claimed the lives of too many children and adults. The holiday season brings cut trees and fresh evergreen decorations into the home. These are highly flammable when they dry out. Decorations, space heaters and unattended children at home for holiday vacations can add up to more tragedy. So, please take a few minutes from your busy schedule to perform this task. I think the idea of changing batteries when we turn our clocks back to standard time is excellent and one that I recommend.
return to: |top|